Are Dog Parks Bad?

Like so many things with dogs (and life) there isn’t a black and white answer here. Dogs playing happily is a beautiful thing to watch - and owners head out to dog parks to give their dogs that joy.

In my travels, I’ve seen dog parks that are many acres of trails and forest, dog parks that are tiny squares of fenced in dirt, and everything in between.

On one end of the continuum, you have the space to see and manage incoming dogs, the room for dogs to properly use their body language to diffuse a situation, and the ability to keep some space between your dogs and others.

On the other end, you have an environment where a new dog is likely to be overwhelmed by a rush of dogs, put on the defensive, with no place to go to get some space or evade the pack.

Small spaces can exacerbate issues.

Picture that small fenced square of dirt. A group of dogs is running around. They see a new dog get out of the car and head to the gate. They race to the fence, crowding about. Owners may half-heartedly call their dogs but they don’t listen (after all, that’s why they are here), and the new dog is SURROUNDED by dogs the second the gate opens.

Picturing the human equivalent of this makes my stomach clench. What a stressful way to enter a park. If your dog wants to evade another dog (or dogs), there is nowhere to go. If they want to ease into a social situation, they can’t. It is an all or nothing situation.

Do all dogs want to play?

I have come across very few dogs in my life who don’t want to play with other dogs in some fashion. Play is a very normal part of a dog’s life. However, I do NOT think that means all dogs want to play with all other dogs!

Just like people, styles need to be a match. I do not like watching sports. Any sports (with the exception of the Olympics - then I watch them ALL). I can (somewhat) understand someone’s desire to watch some sportsball event on TV, but I definitely won’t be hanging out with them.

Danger rarely initiates play with any of the crew. She seems to dislike their rambunctious approach. She is content to trot along on our walks, moving out of the way if a freight train of Dalmatians is approaching. However, she is very playful with her pups. Because we kept Murdie, she continued to play with her. I always say it’s like she made herself her own BFF. It is SUPER adorable and they LOVE to race around and wrestle.

Not even all playful dogs want to play with all playful dogs. Terror and Random get along perfectly well. They have zero issues, but despite them both being very playful dogs, I almost never see them play with each other.

The problem with dog parks is it is hard to cater to preferences of play style or find the right match in playmates. It is much more a free for all that results in dogs bullying other dogs.

Not all dogs are trained or socialized.

Unfortunately, many owners have NOT spent any time working on their dog’s manners. Instead, they will excuse behvaviour “oh, they’re just playful” when their dog goes smashing into another dog’s face with zero respect for their space.

MANY dogs will find this sort of behaviour rude (because it is) and rather than wanting to play, will firmly suggest the dog back off (growling, snarking, etc to create space). Hopefully the dog will listen and “all” that will have happened is an unsettlingly rude interaction where your poor dog was forced to assert themselves for their space. If the offending dog doesn’t back off, either you’ve got a fight on your hands or your poor dog is going to be bullied.

Should dogs play with other dogs?

There is little that I enjoy watching more than dogs at play. Running, chasing, wrestling. The look of absolutely JOY on their faces is mesmerizing. I think (appropriate) play with other dogs can truly fill a need that I can not any other way. I do a lot to enrich my dogs’ lives, but I can not take the place of play with another dog.

If you’re fortunate enough to be able to get to a dog park that is set up appropriately and used by engaged owners who understand their dogs, then it could be a good fit. Hopefully you will connect with owners who have dogs that your dog enjoys playing with and you can coordinate visits.

Renting a SniffSpot can be a great way to find a place for your dog(s) to run and play with each other or perhaps some of your friend’s dogs. Knowing that no extraneous dogs will be crashing the party means you can relax and let your dogs play.

If you don’t have your own household of dogs where they can find their play buddies, make some dog owning friends :). Every dog benefits from an Obedience class, and it can also be a great place to meet some of the dog owning community around you.

Should dogs play? Yes. But make sure it’s actually fun and fulfilling, not stressful and exhausting.

Crate training: Cruel or Kind?

Crate training is a topic with STRONG opinions, and it should be. The decisions around crating dogs involve safety and quality of life- I'd be concerned if these weren't hot topics.

On the far end of one side, there are dog owners who see no issue with their dog being crated 100% of the time they're not being interacted with. There are dogs who live their lives inside a crate other than trips outside and training sessions.

On the far other side, there are dog owners who never use a crate and proclaim that any time in a crate is abuse.

Like so many issues, the middle ground is where the reasonable answer lies.

What is a crate?

When referring to a crate, most people mean a rectangular cage, suitable for a dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down in. This could be a classic plastic crate with a metal door, a wire folding crate, or one of the newer metal crates, but the essential style and size is the same. Crates may also be referred to as kennels, though other people say kennel meaning a dog run like you'd see in a boarding kennel.

Why use a crate?

A crate can be a very valuable tool in training and securing a dog, particularly puppies and young dogs. Puppies are inherently inclined to keep their sleeping area clean, so a crate can be a huge benefit with house training.

A sturdy crate can also provide a safe time-out space for pups to let them relax and sleep. Puppies need SO MUCH sleep but they also have FOMO and don’t want to sleep and miss out on the fun :). Having a place they can go and snooze without distraction is crucial to their development.

Crates can keep puppies and dogs secure in the house, preventing them from being destructive when not being supervised.

Crates can be a tool for safety for your dog. A sturdy crate can keep your dog safe in the vehicle in the event of a crash. Dogs left unattended at home can be at risk of chewing cords or other harmful hazards.

Households with both male and female intact dogs may use crates to ensure separation when girls are in season and prevent unwanted breeding.

Crates are valuable tools that can be used to keep our beloved dogs safe, protect them from harm, separate them when necessary, and manage our households.

A crate-trained dog is more likely to be able to relax if they need to be kept at the vet clinic or need to be boarded at a facility - rather than a dog who is not used to being confined. In the event of an emergency situation requiring evacuation, crate-trained dogs can be safely and comfortably transported and contained.

Crating during meal times or with high value chew items can prevent scuffles and decrease the risk of dogs developing resource guarding behaviour (not a panacea, some dogs will still resource guard, but crating/separating can prevent them from practicing those behaviours).

It’s just a tool….

Like any other tool, a crate can be misused. I do NOT think that keeping a dog confined to a box for most of the day (and then again overnight) is ideal. I fully understand the need to safely contain dogs and do NOT advocate for pups/young dogs to be left to their own devices in a large area - but I DO think there are alternatives.

If you are working a standard day and away from the house for 9+ hours - can you have a dog walker come midday to exercise your dog and give them a break? Can your pup be left in a larger pen area with access to a potty area until they’re able to hold their bladder? Is there a safe area within your house where you could confine your dog but give them more freedom/room?

I do not think a dog being crated all day while you are at work is necessarily an issue. Assuming the dog is exercised before the day and when you are home, then spend time with their family in the evening - this can be a totally ok routine.

I DO think that a dog being crated all day while the humans are at work, then confined in the evening while people are eating/out at activities etc, then crated overnight is too much… we need to remember that we are our dogs’ WHOLE lives. Their entertainment, engagement, and learning all come from us. They are totally devoted to us and they deserve our consideration for how to make their lives fulfilling and enriching.

I often hear proponents of crates say “our dogs sleep 18 hours a day anyway”. Although this is true (and I am very jealous of them), I can also attest as someone who is fortunate enough to primarily work from home, that they do not choose to sleep in one position and one place all day.

While I am working, my dogs are often asleep. They will get up, wander around, maybe play with a toy for a bit, look out the window, maybe play with each other, then settle back down. They aren’t the most active while I work (thank goodness) but they DO clearly enjoy the ability to move about and the freedom to reposition, look outside, etc.

Crating Alternatives

In some cases, an area of the house can be dog proofed, allowing for more freedom of movement. In other cases, a larger run or pen may be appropriate for extended absences. If a crate is the best option, then I would encourage people to do what they can to split up their dog’s day with a dog walker or house visit. If those aren’t options (I live rurally, there are very few pet sitting options), then ensuring the dog gets exercise, mental engagement, and attention/affection before and after work is key to balancing their day.

Each household and each dog is unique. There is no “one size fits all solution”. As long as we are weighing and balancing safety/convenience/enrichment when we are making decisions, we will make the right choices.

Socialization

What is socialization ?

It's not meeting every person and every dog you pass.

It's not bringing your puppy to the dog park to let them play.

Its not about only walking them around the block.

It's about carefully curating experiences that will expose your pup to new sights, sounds, smells, footing, etc, without overwhelming them, without teaching them that every person or dog they pass is their new best friend, and without letting their world be so narrow that they shy away from new experiences.

Socialization is about building a stable, confident, resilient dog.

Socialization, particularly within the crucial socialization period of 4 to 16 weeks, is about preparing your dog to handle the world around them. To be exposed to different sights, sounds, and experiences, and allow them to "practice" resilience.

Socialization can build on a great genetic temperament, creating a stable dog who's calm in crowds, who might startle at a loud noise but promptly recover, who's curious rather than cautious, wanting to explore the world.

Socialization can improve on a genetically poor temperament, allowing a shy dog to be more outgoing and a nervous dog to be more stable, but the most robust socialization plan won't "fix" a poor temperament. If your goal is a stable dog who can be a joy to bring along to patios, travel with, and join you on adventures, step one is choosing the right breed and right breeder.

Socialization with the Breeder

Long before the key socialization window opens at 4 weeks, great breeders have begun socialization and specific exercises to promote resilience, stability, and comfort being handled.

Puppies are handled daily to ensure they are thriving, they are weighed daily (or twice a day), their nails are trimmed regularly, eyes and ears are checked, etc. Many breeders introduce Early Neurological Stimulation (ENS) beginning at day 3 and continuing daily until day 16. This period of growth is believed to be a time of rapid neurological development.

ENS was developed by the US Military to improve the performance of future working dogs. Puppies are handled one at a time while performing a series of five exercises. The breeder completes all 5 exercises with one puppy before moving on to the next.

1. Tactile Stimulation - using a Q-tip to tickle the pup between the toes on any one foot

2. Head held erect - using both hands, the pup is held perpendicular to the ground so that its head is directly above the tail.

3. Head pointed down - holding the pup firmly with both hands, the head is reversed and pointed downward.

4. Supine position - holding the pup so that its back is resting in the palm of both hands with muzzle facing the ceiling.

5. Thermal stimulation - using a damp towel that has been cooled in the fridge, the pup is placed on the towel feet down

Each of these exercises lasts 3 to 5 seconds.

Throughout your future puppy’s development, great breeders are actively working to safely and appropriately socialize them. Baby puppies should be meeting a variety of people (kids, seniors, beards, hats, etc), other household dogs, walking on a variety of surfaces, being exposed to new sounds and sights (all while practicing appropriate biosecurity).

Programs like Puppy Culture can be a great guide for breeders, helping them make the most of the socialization period. Although we use and love Puppy Culture, I'd never consider it a red flag if a breeder didn't. While my mentors may not specifically follow Puppy Culture, they are doing a fabulous job of safely socializing their pups, and have been long before Puppy Culture existed. It isn't about using a certain program (or not), it's about being fully dedicated to giving pups the best start possible, in health, nutrition, early training, and socialization.

Socialization at Home

Once you bring your puppy home, it's your responsibility to continue their socialization- for their whole life, but particularly until the end of that first, key, socialization window. Just like with the breeder, socialization in a puppy has to be balanced with safety. There's no one right answer. Different homes will have different risks in their areas. Some local parks may be appropriate for a walk, some may not be.

Absolutely avoid any dog park or high dog traffic area until vaccines are complete (and maybe forever, many dog parks are not appropriate places to take your dog), but absolutely do not wait until vaccines are complete until you begin socialization!

Get your puppy out in crowds (farmers market? Garden center? Dog show as a novice puppy?), get your puppy around a variety of people (friend's homes with no dogs or fully vaccinated adult dogs? Nursing home visit with permission? Cub scout meeting?). Get your puppy out around sounds (car show? Skatepark?) Get your puppy out. Every day.

When I have a new pup we go on an adventure every day. Maybe it's a conservation area that has metal steps for new footing, maybe it's hanging out at the skatepark to hear the noise of skateboards and kids shouting, maybe it's to walk through a garden center and walk on gravel, sniff different plants....every day, something new.

Before the Cabin in the Woods pups went home, they went to the auto shop my husband works at to chill in my car while listening to loud machines. They went to visit a friend's elderly dog-loving mum and milled around her walker and toddled around her basement. They went to a friend's studio for a photoshoot.

Right from 3 weeks old, every day they had a new experience. A new toy in their pen, a new obstacle to climb, an introduction to water, etc.

What Socialization Is and Isn’t

As you head out with your pup, remember that socializing is about being calm and curious, and being exposed to new sights, sounds, and smells. It isn't about meeting every person or dog. Meeting people it great! (And super important) But being around new people and not greeting everyone is also important!

Learning to focus on you when there are distractions lays the foundation for a sport dog who can focus in a crowd, or a pet dog who is calm and relaxed on a patio.

I'm a firm believer in NO on leash meetings with other dogs. Too many random dogs in public are unfriendly or unstable. On leash greetings prevent dogs from exercising normal body language and can create problems. And I very much do not want my dog pulling towards every dog we pass. Meet your friends' stable dogs in their yard or yours. Meet up at safe off leash areas (not off leash parks that too often are a free for all) for playtime.

Socializing a puppy is a big responsibility and is also so much fun. So many tiny adventures with your new best friend. Have a plan, have fun, and set your pup up to be your adventure buddy for the rest of their life.

Resource Guarding

Resource Guarding is a common issue with ANY dog breed. Resource Guarding does NOT equal aggression.

First, it is entirely reasonable not to want someone to take away something you value. If I am hungry and you go to take my plate of food, I will likely stab you with a fork.

PLEASE do not try to “teach” your puppy/dog not to resource guard by TAKING things away. Constantly messing with your dog’s food, taking it away, putting your hand in their bowl, etc can CREATE resource guarding.

REMEMBER - your dog determines what is valuable to them. Some dogs are food obsessed and may be more prone to guard their bowl. Some are toy focused and may guard a favourite toy. Be aware and pay attention when your dog holds something in high value - this is both a resource that could be used for training/motivation and one that may be at risk for being guarded.

The best way to manage resource guarding is to prevent it from starting. Managing how dogs are fed and how and when they have chews, or other items of value can go a long ways to preventing resource guarding from ever starting.

1. DON’T interfere with your dog while they are eating - don’t take their food away, don’t put your hand in their bowl, don’t get in their space.

   DO toss the occasional high value treat into their bowl while they are eating - associate you interacting with their food in a positive way!

   DO teach impulse control by having your dog wait calmly for a meal and then releasing them - this helps teach focus and lessens the impulse to rush in and devour food as soon as it’s available.

2. DON’T give your dogs high value chews while in close proximity to each other. Feeling like they need to defend something they want will increase tendency to resource guard.

   DO separate your dogs to allow them to calmly enjoy a high value chew - in runs/kennels/separate rooms.

3. DON’T get into the habit of grabbing everything out of your puppy’s mouth - this will simply teach them to play keep away AND encourage them to guard what they have.

   DO trade your puppy/dog high value treats or toys for something they have stolen - soon you’ll have a dog who BRINGS you things for trade instead of guarding or racing off with it.

I feed my dogs separately in their runs. I have them go and wait in their runs (with doors open - a great chance to practice impulse control) when I am getting their food ready. I don’t like them milling about while I am getting their food, none of them are really resource guarders, but having them in a situation where they feel they are jostling for food would be a good way to create that.

Feeding them in their runs allows them to focus on their food without the threat of someone coming to take it from them. This encourages calmer behaviour while eating, decreases the tendency to gulp food (though the Dals are still remarkably quick eaters), and alleviates the need for them to feel like they’re having to watch out for other dogs coming towards their precious food bowl.

I have low-value chews (like Benebones) available in their toy box. These are chews that my crew enjoys, but they’re not so special that they feel the need to guard them.

If a dog decides to guard a chew (growls/stiffens when another dog approaches) it isn’t a bad thing, they’re simply communicating to the other dog that this is a chew they don’t want to share. I don’t correct the dog, but shortly after that I will remove the chew (trading for something else) and put it away. Preventing situations where dogs are likely to guard helps our household run smoothly. Every dog has a benebone in their run to enjoy when they are on their own.

High value chews are given separately. Most of my dogs can relax in their side-by-side runs with a chew, one dog is still suspicious of his neighbours so he enjoys high value chews out on the deck by himself. Separating them allows them to relax and enjoy the chew instead of being tense and feeling they need to guard their prize.

If you don’t have runs/kennels/crates where your dog(s) can be safely and comfortably separated, you can separate in different rooms, use baby gates to split up rooms, or have one outside and one inside.

Teaching impulse control can go a long way to helping prevent and manage resource guarding. Waiting to be fed. Waiting for a treat. Don’t make it arduously long, but do teach your dog that waiting calmly is the best way to get what they want.

Resource guarding can also present differently dog-to-dog vs. dog-human vs. dog-to-other animals. You may have a dog who will calmly relinquish a bone to you but guard it against a housemate dog or charge the cat as they walk by. A good rule of thumb is to separate your dog when they have a high-value item, so they don’t feel the need to guard from any people/other animals.

If resource guarding is an issue in your home - seek the help of a qualified and experienced trainer. Dogs guarding a resource can absolutely pose a risk to other animals or people in the household.

How to Have a Patio Pooch

One of my favourite things to do with my dogs is hang out on a patio on a beautiful day.

It is a great way for us to spend some quality time together, and it is also often a wonderful opportunity for some socialization and some practice in being chill and focused around other dogs and people.

I really value the “relax and hang out” skills as they allow me to safely and enjoyably bring my dogs more places.

To begin, I need to be well prepared. I almost always bring a dog bed with me (the exception being the places I know are nice grassy areas). Particularly on a warm day, it’s nice to have a comfy bed vs the hot ground.

I always bring a bowl and some water (lots of places offer to provide this, which is awesome, but I am always prepared). For some dogs, I will bring a chew along for them to focus on. I don’t usually bring chews, or at least not high value ones, if I am bringing multiple dogs - that can lead to competition over who has the nicer chew, haha.

I come prepared with a bag of treats (often just their kibble) so I can reward their good behaviour.

Before we arrive, I ensure they have had a walk to be able to relieve themselves (and take the edge off their energy).

My goals for a new dog are different than my goals for a seasoned patio pooch. For a new dog, the environment of people, other dogs, new smells, food, etc, can be really exciting!

When I begin working with a new dog, my goals for our first trip will simply be to focus on me as opposed to climbing on the table or pulling towards other patrons. I will ask for their attention and reward promptly. This is a challenging environment and when I start working on these skills it is usually with a puppy with a short attention span. Literally a moment of focus will be rewarded.

I will then ask them to sit or lay down on their bed and reward when they do. For a young dog, the chew treat can be helpful in encouraging them to settle.

As we go more places they begin to get better at focusing on me and relaxing versus paying attention to everything and everyone else. As they are successful, I begin to increase the time I expect them to be laying down before I give a treat. I will often treat them when I ask them to lay down, then again in say 30 seconds if they have remained down and relaxed.

As we practice this more, I introduce longer intervals between rewards. Like anything, I work with a variable schedule of reward. So they may get a treat as soon as they lay down, or it may be a few minute wait, or it may be 15 seconds. Bouncing around on times helps solidify the behaviour without teaching them that it is always increasing in time (which weakens the behaviour).

Very soon, I have a dog who will begin to offer a down on their bed for a treat. I will ALWAYS mark and reward this choice! Then I will continue to ping pong back between shorter and longer intervals.

If they get up, I will ask them to lay down or just ignore them (assuming they aren’t causing trouble in some other way) and wait for them to resume laying down.

It really doesn’t take long for them to learn to lay down, relax, and be rewarded. Then they become a dog that is a joy to take places, is a great ambassador for their breed, and is a credit to your efforts!

Have fun with your patio pooch!